The Pentland Hills lie to the southern edge of Edinburgh and cover around 10,000 hectares of countryside, woodlands and fresh water.
There are two main routes that can be taken to reach the Pentlands, either by taking the A70 through Currie where you will have a further choice of two options. You can either continue on the this road all the way up to Harperrig reservoir or, take the turn into Balerno and follow the directions up to Bavelaw marsh, Harlaw and Threipmuir reservoirs.
Your second option is to take the A702 along the southern edge of Edinburgh from the Lothianburn junction.
HOW TO GET THERE
As there is no train service anywhere near the Pentlands, your only means of transport is by car or bus.
If you are taking the bus out to the Bavelaw area, the 44 (Lothian Buses), 44 & 66 (First Buses) will take you to the terminus at Balerno. When you get off, follow the road up for just over a mile until you reach the car park on your left. From here you have the choice of continuing up to Bavelaw or take one of the tracks over to Threipmuir and Harlaw.
Should you choose to take the second route, the 100 & x100 (MacEwans Coach Services) will drop you at the entrance to Flotterstone where there is a public house and visitors centre situated at the car park. Before you set off on your travels here, I would highly recommend picking up a map from the visitors centre as you could easily get lost if you are unfamiliar with the area.
For up to date bus time tables, contact the numbers below.
Lothian Buses ( 0131 555 6363 )
First Buses ( 0870 872 7271 )
MacEwans ( 01387 256533 )
HABITAT
Due to the size and range of the Pentlands, it covers a whole host of habitats from farmland, open countryside with gorse & scrub, moorland, rocky hillsides & scree, mixed woodlands, deciduous woodlands, spruce, fir and coniferous plantations, hedgerows, meadows, reservoirs, rivers and burns.
BIRDS TO BE FOUND
Dotterel, Ring Ouzel, Cuckoo, Red Grouse & Red-legged Partridge, Pheasant, Wheatear, Whinchat, Stonechat, Willow Warbler, Sedge Warbler, Grasshopper Warbler, Chiffchaff, Blackcap, Whitethroat, Spotted Flycatcher, Brambling, Treecreeper, Goldcrest, Crossbill, Redpoll, Linnet, Twite, Siskin, Yellowhammer, Reed Bunting, Meadow Pipit, Skylark, Chaffinch, Greenfinch, Goldfinch, Bullfinch, Blue tit, Great tit, Coal tit, Long-tailed tit, Robin, Wren, Dunnock, Great-spotted Woodpecker, Pied Wagtail, Grey Wagtail, Grey Heron, Dipper, Kingfisher, Common Sandpiper, Oystrecatcher, Lapwing, Curlew, Redshank, Water Rail, Moorhen, Coot, Goldeneye, Goosander, Wigeon, Pochard, Teal, Gadwall, Tufted Duck, Mallard, Little Grebe, Cormorant, Whooper Swan, Mute Swan, Greylag Goose, Pink-footed Goose, Swallow, Swift, House & Sand Martin, Buzzard, Kestral, Sparrowhawk, Peregrine Falcon, Tawny Owl, Stock Dove, Collared Dove, Wood Pigeon, Blackbird, Song Thrush, Mistle Thrush, Redwing, Fieldfare, Starling, Jay, Carrion Crow, Rook, Jackdaw, Raven, Magpie, Common Gull, Black-headed Gull, Herring Gull, Lesser-black backed Gull.
Most of all the above mentioned are resident through out the year, but only a small proportion of them are seasonal. However, most are easy enough to find if you this guide.
All of these species listed below are all possible and can turn up, or be seen passing through if your there at the right time. Osprey, Hen Harrier and Merlin are all reported here but are less frequent than the other raptors. Barn Owl, Long-eared and Short-eared Owls are also all possible, but again less frequent than the commoner Tawny Owl. During the winter months, Geese flocks should be checked for Barnacle or White-Front, and perhaps the rarer Taiga Bean that turned up a few years back. Garganey can normally be seen from time to time, but something a lot rarer could emerge at any time, just like the juv / 1st winter Ferruginous Duck back in December 06.
WHERE TO GO
Due to the size and range of the Pentlands, not every species is all going to be at the same location, so I have narrowed your options down to five sites. Hopefully you will find exactly what you are looking for at one of them, although luck and patience can play a part.
GLENCOURSE & LOGANLEA
Glencourse & Loganlea are both reservoirs and are connected by the loganburn. They both hold small numbers of wildfowl with Goldeneye, Tufted Duck, Mallard, Little Grebe and also Cormorant virtually guaranteed on every trip. Goosander, Pochard, Wigeon and Gadwall are all possible here but less frequent. The loganburn is a strong hold for the Dipper and they can often be seen flying up and down the burn. Good numbers of Grey Wagtail and Grey Heron can be seen both on the burn and around the edges of the reservoirs. During the summer months, good numbers of Common Sandpiper can be seen from Glencourse all the way up to the waterfall.
The area between the two reservoirs is probably the best site in the lothians to find a Cuckoo. They are best seen sitting up on the phone lines so make sure you have a good look. If there are none there when you are, just stop and wait a short while and it wont be long before they make an appearance. Their famous call will alert you to their presence and they can be heard from quite a distance.
Other migrants that turn up in this stretch are Wheatear, Whinchat, Willow Warbler, Chiffchaff, Swallows, Swifts, House & Sand Martins.
The Common Buzzard and Kestrel are widely distributed in these parts, but you also have the chance of picking up a Peregrine Falcon soaring above the hills. Sparrowhawk is possible here but you will have a better chance of seeing one darting through the tree’s around Glencourse in search of a meal rather than seeing one out in the open.
The tree’s in this area are good for Treecreeper, Goldcrest, Finches and tits.
CARNETHY HILL
Your target bird here is the Dotterel. Carnethy hill boasts being the best location in the lothians to find them. They occasionally frequent neighbouring Scald law from time to time, but have seemed to prefer Carnethy in recent years. They usually arrive at the very end of April or more often the beginning of May. First thing in the morning can be the best time to see them, especially after a wet and cloudy night. If there is still a little cloud cover in the morning, this will enhance your chances of seeing them as they wont usually move until the weather clears. Dotterel tend only to continue on migration when they have a clear run in front of them, so horrible cloud and rain at this time of year is good.
Red Grouse are in abundance on these hills and can be seen/heard on virtually any walk up here. Red-legged Partridge are possible on the hills but not as wide spread as the grouse. Your best bet to find them is by checking the clearings in the heather.
Stonechat, Meadow Pipit and Skylark are all fairly common on the hills as can Wheatear during the summer. Keep your eyes peeled on the sky line for passing raptors such as Peregrine, Buzzard and Kestrel. The rarer Raven is definetly possible here so keep your ears tuned in for their deep croaking as they pass over.
THE HOWE & THE WATERFALL
The Howe as it is known, is a little valley to the west of Loganlea. You will know that you are in the right area with the steep rock faces on your right hand side and the waterfall straight in front of you. This is an excellent part of the Pentlands as several species seem to favour it. Ring Ouzel often nest in this area and normally give great views. Their flutey call can be picked up instantly so it doesn’t take long to track one down, usually you will see them sitting up on little tree’s and bushes from up on the rocks.
Whinchat is another summer visitor that favours this part of the valley, but be careful not to mix them up with the commoner Stonechat. Wheatear arrive in good numbers here and can be seen all over. The Common Sandpiper, Dipper, Grey Wagtail and Grey Heron all inhabit these parts as well, so a good selection of birds are available to see.
BAVELAW MARSH, THREIPMUIR & HARLAW
These three reservoirs are all side by side, but the majority of things that turn up here seem to favour Bavelaw as the water is normally a bit shallower. They all seem attract good numbers of wildfowl, but yet again Bavelaw seems to hold the bulk of them.
Goosander, Pochard, Wigeon, Teal, Tufted Duck, Goldeneye, Mallard, Moorhen, Coot, Little Grebe and even Cormorant can be found on most visits depending on when you visit. There are several other species of duck that occur here but are not so common, Gadwall, Shoveler, Pintail and Garganey have all been recorded. The Gadwall and Shoveler can turn up at any time but you are more likely to find Garganey during the summer months and Pintail in the winter.
Great-crested Grebe used to breed at Bavelaw, but sadly no attempts have been made in recent times. Sightings of these beautiful Grebes are quite rare up here now, but never rule out a return one day. Water Rail are present through out the year here but unfortunately they are heard more than they are seen. Always give the edges of the marsh a good check as this is where you are most likely to see them. The Kingfisher can also present the year out here, but you have a better chance of seeing them during the winter period. They are seen regularly from the hide at Bavelaw and also flying round Threipmuir and Harlaw.
A good selection of raptors can be found through out the area, Buzzard, Kestrel and Sparrowhawk are all fairly common where as the Peregrine is possible but seems to favour the higher grounds. Hen Harrier is a rare but regular visitor to these parts, with most of the sightings coming from the hide at Bavelaw looking over to the fields. They arrive totally out of the blue, gliding effortlessly over the grasslands and vanish in the same fashion as they arrived. The Merlin is a scarce visitor around here, but there are always a one or two reported each year. If your luck is in, Osprey can be seen flying over any of the three stretches of water during the summer months, but to catch a glimpse of one doing a spot of fishing requires a great deal of luck. All four species of Owl can be seen around this part of the Pentlands, but the most likely one to be seen is the Tawny Owl. They can normally be seen roosting during the day by the old ruined building around 400 yards up from the car park. Another species that loves this old building is the Spotted Flycatcher. They arrive in fairly good numbers and can show extremely well, so there is no need to try and enter the old building as it is very unstable. While you are checking this patch, look out for Redpoll, Linnet and Siskin, all of which can be seen.
Now, for a location so far inland you wouldn’t think that it would attract many waders, but that is where you are wrong. As well as hosting Redshank, Curlew, Lapwing and Oystercatcher, it occasionally turns up the odd Greenshank. The best time for waders up here is when water levels are at a low. In June last year (2008) a Little-ringed Plover turned up out of the blue when the water dropped. September and October however seem to prove the most fruitful of months for attracting yank waders. A Baird’s Sandpiper was present at Threipmuir in September 03, a Pectoral Sandpiper was at Bavelaw in September 04 and also at Bavelaw was a White-rumped Sandpiper in October 05. This is a truly remarkable record and one that can not be surpassed by many other locations so far inland. Bavelaw also played host to a Night Heron in February 07.
As the summer and autumn months disperse, the winter period is closing in rapidly. Before you know it, the returning Whooper Swans are starting to arrive and fill up the reservoirs, with Bavelaw being the favoured spot. It is worth checking the flocks for the rarer Bewick’s Swan as it is surley only a matter of time before one turns up. There are also large groups of Mute Swan present here through out the year.
Large numbers of Geese gather both in the fields and on the water through out the area to feed and preen. The groups are made up mostly of Greylags and Pink-footed, but it is not uncommon to find the odd Barnacle in amongst them. In November 06, a single Taiga Bean Goose stood out from the crowds here, a very rare bird in Lothian now, so a good thorough check is advisable.
Winter Thrushes such as Fieldfare and Redwing can both be seen along with the commoner Mistle and Song Thrush, another winter visitor to these parts is the Brambling. The best place to see them here is from the hide at Bavelaw as they pay regular visits to feeders. The hide is an all round great place for watching woodland birds too, and it is possible to see all of the following on most occasions. Goldfinch, Greenfinch, Chaffinch, Bullfinch, Brambling, Siskin, Great tit, Coal tit, Blue tit, Long-tailed tit, Treecreeper, Great-spotted Woodpecker, Jay, Wren, Robin and Reed Bunting.
HARPERRIG
Harperrig is situated at the western most point of the Pentlands, and it also has a few surprises up it’s sleeve.
As you approach Harperrig you will see the reservoir on your left. You will now go round a sharp bend, but when you come to the next bend which veers to the right, you will see a little road straight ahead of you. Take this exit and park carefully on the verge before the gates and cattle grid to allow farmers and land owners easy access.
The large reservoir is surrounded by farmland, spruce, fir and conifer plantations. Common wildfowl such as Tufted Duck, Teal, Goldeneye, Wigeon and Mallard are all present. Grey Heron and Cormorants can be found scattered all over the reservoir, and in the winter large skeins of Geese stop off here to fuel up. This is also a great vantage point for watching skeins flying over as you have a great view in all directions.
The plantations up here play host to the Common Crossbill which should be your target bird for the area. Some years prove to be better than others for Crossbill numbers, but this is down to weather the tree’s produce a good crop of cones or not. The plantation on your right hand side where you park the car is a great place to start looking as they seem to favour this section and also the next plantation down beside the fishery office. The field which separates the plantations is a great place to stand and watch them fly back and forth. The most productive months for them I feel are between November and March.
When you are at the fishery office, there is a road which takes you away up into West Cairns where you will have the chance of picking up Goldcrest, Treecreeper, Redpoll, Siskin and Great-spotted Woodpecker. As you are walking along this stretch of road, you will see a section of felled forestry to your right. This always seems to hold a small population of Red Grouse that are often flushed up by passing Deer. Stonchat, Wren, Robins and Dunnocks are also found here.
Raptor species to be found here on most outings are again Buzzard and Kestral with the chance of Sparrowhawk and Peregrine. Osprey sightings are frequent during the summer months, but again this is down to luck weather you are in the right place at the right time.
Tawny Owl, Barn Owl and Long-eared Owl are all possible, your best chance of seeing one is either first light or at dusk.
SOME OLDER RECORDS FROM THE PENTLANDS
Golden Eagle- An adult was present for one day only back on the 19th of May 1951.
Rough-legged Buzzard- Again for one day only, one was present above Black hill on the 12th of December 1965.
American Wigeon- A drake was present at Bavelaw between the 24th to the 27th of March 1990.
Blue-winged Teal- A male was present between the 21st to the 22nd of May 1996.
Ferruginous Duck- A male was found at Threipmuir reservoir on the 30th of December 2006.
Snow Goose- An adult White-phase was present west of Bavelaw on the 16th of January 1986.
Spotted Crake- A juvenile was present on the 4th of September 1999.
Wryneck- One was present around Loganlea on the 16th of September 1974.
FINAL NOTE
Routes in the Pentlands are used by a variety of people including walkers, cyclists, horse riders, dog walkers, anglers and us the birders. Additionally farm and land management work takes place all year round. It is important that the responsibilities laid out in the Scottish Outdoor Access code are respected and adhered to at all times.
www.birdinglothian.co.uk
birdinglothian@hotmail.co.uk
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